This nourishing and substantial soup makes use of smoked haddock, a tasty and versatile fish which is also good poached and served with a knob of butter, or flaked with cooked rice as a kedgeree. Smoking fish slowly over a wood fire is an ancient British way of preserving food while giving it a unique flavour. Our most famous smoked fish, the kipper, is one of Britain's great contributions to the good food of the world.

Serves 4

450 g (1 lb) smoked haddock fillet

225 g (8 oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into

1 cm (1/2 inch) dice

2 medium onions, skinned and sliced

50 g (2 oz) English butter

30 ml (2 level tbsp) flour

175 g (6 oz) carrot, peeled and coarsely

grated 150 ml (1/4 pint) fresh single cream

salt and freshly ground pepper

chopped fresh parsley to garnish

1. Simmer the fish in 1.1 litres (2 pints) water for 10 minutes until tender. Drain, reserving the liquid. Flake coarsely, discarding skin and any bones.

2. Saute the onion in the butter until soft, then stir in the flour. Gradually add the strained fish stock and bring to the boil, stirring. Add the potatoes and the coarsely grated carrot. Simmer for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are tender.

3. Stir in the fresh cream and flaked fish. Season well and heat to serving temperature. Do not boil. Garnish with lots of chopped parsley.

Variation Corn Chowder

Substitute 100 g (4 oz) streaky bacon and a 350 g (11 1/2 oz) can drained sweetcorn for the fish.