These leeks are a purple stained, richly flavoured treat, perfect with lamb or by themselves. The wine gives an edge of acidity, which makes the dish good cold too, a sort of boozy leeks a la grecque.

450 g (1 lb) leeks

olive oil

butter

about 1 tbsp chopped fresh herbs

about 300 ml (10 fl oz) red wine

salt and pepper

1. Trim the leeks and cut them into pieces about 5 cm (2 inch) long.

2. Fry in a mixture of olive oil and butter until more or less brown all over.

3. Grind on lots of black pepper and salt, and add the herbs: 'hard' herbs like rosemary, thyme, oregano and, in moderation, sage, are best.

4. Slosh in the wine, enough to almost cover them. Simmer on the hob until the leeks are cooked and the wine is reduced to a lovely gooey syrup.

5. Serve hot or cold, with roast meat, or just crusty bread.