Chicken with leeks is a famously good combination: think of cock-a-leekie. In this quick lunch or supper dish, thighs, one of the best and cheapest parts of a chicken, are baked until the skin is browned and crispy, atop a pile of melting, herby leeks and red pepper. Leave out the pepper if you like: the leeks are the star here.

4 chicken thighs (skin on)

4 large leeks

olive oil

white wine

2 bay leaves plus some other herbs

1 red pepper

salt and pepper

creme fraiche to serve

1. Trim the thighs of surplus skin, and thus most of the fat.

2. Slice the leeks into discs the thickness of a one-pound coin and clean them.

3. Place in a shallow baking dish. Stir in 2-3 tablespoorifuls of olive oil and a good five of white wine.

4. Season well with salt and black pepper, tuck in the bay leaves and sprinkle with about a tablespoonful of chopped fresh herbs (rosemary is ideal).

5. Lay the chicken on top of the leeks, tucking slices of red pepper around. Season again.

6. Bake uncovered at Gas 6 (200C) 400F for about an hour until the chicken skin is crisp and golden and the leeks are bathed in juices.

7. Reduce the heat if it browns too quickly, but don't cover it, as that will stop the chicken skin from crisping.

8. Stir a tablespoon or two of creme fraiche into the leeks before serving if you like.